A deep energy retrofit combines energy efficiency measures such as energy efficient equipment, air sealing, moisture management, controlled ventilation, insulation, and passive solar solutions so that dramatic energy savings are achieved alongside optimal and healthy home performance. A Deep Energy Retrofit in concept could fill up a book or more. The following is an introduction. For a more in depth view of the options and affordable, practical techniques for your mobile home please consult our eBook: iMobileHomeTM Retrofit and Renovation - 1st ed. eBook (PDF) LINK TO ORDER BOOK.
iMobileHomes™
recommends these Deep Energy Retrofit Videos for consideration by
mobile home owners desiring to improve their living experiences.
As an introduction, durability, good interior air quality and energy efficiency are attained by sound retrofit science practices. In a deep energy retrofits, filling a wall cavity with effective insulation also requires careful consideration of how that wall will dry if moisture does happen to get past its skin. Using very high R-value insulation systems on the exterior of the building enclosure is often one of the hallmarks of a deep energy retrofit. Where exactly the dewpoint will fall in (or out) of those thickened walls—and in what climate zone—becomes crucial. Careful detailing, flashing and air sealing of windows and other building penetrations is also key to a successful deep energy retrofit.
Systems thinking is required for these kinds of retrofits, where highly efficient windows are "tuned" to their orientation, and mechanical systems and heat recovery ventilation units are sized and integrated with how the walls, roof and basement are being air sealed, moisture-managed and insulated.
Before reading further, review both of these PDFs. It will assist your understanding of the simplicity of many changes you can make to your mobile home.
INSULATION
Insulation is probably the very best investment you can make in your home. Most older mobile homes have R 11 values in the walls or lower. Look for the DATA PLATE around or on the door of your breaker box, and it may tell you the R values in the walls, floor and ceilings. If not, contact the manufacturer and ask them. The INSULATION FACT SHEET and online calculator located at this Department of Energy website will give you an indication of what the R values should be for your home in your ZIP CODE.
Because of the rising cost of heating fuel and electricity, iMobieHomes™ recommends mobile home owners consider a “super insulation” strategy discussed below.
Just inexpensive caulking can do wonders for reducing drafts. Many people have made the mistake of investing in expensive alternative energy solutions such as solar panels before exhausting conservation measures. One of the major and common oversights which the roofing industry could prevent is advising homeowners needing a new roof that they could potentially add insulation such as Structural Insulated Panel (SIPs) before re-roofing.
Look into your walls. It is difficult to add insulation to existing walls unless:
- You are planning to add new siding to your house, or
- You plan to finish unfinished space (like a basement or bonus room).
Look under your floors. Look at the underside of any floor and in the crawlspace. Inspect and measure the thickness of any insulation you find there. It will most likely be a fiberglass batt, so multiply the thickness in inches by 3.2 to find out the R-value (or the R-value might be visible on a product label). If the insulation is a foam board or sprayed-on foam, use any visible label information or multiply the thickness in inches by 5 to estimate the R-value.
Look at your ductwork. Don't overlook another area in your mobile home where energy can be saved - the ductwork of the heating and air- conditioning system. The ducts of your heating or air-conditioning system run through unheated and uncooled spaces in your mobile home. The ducts should be insulated. Check the duct work for air leaks. Repair leaking joints first with mechanical fasteners, then seal any remaining leaks with water-soluble mastic and embedded fiber glass mesh. Refrain from using gray cloth duct tape because it degrades, cracks, and loses its bond with age. If a joint has to be accessible for future maintenance, use pressure- or heat-sensitive aluminum foil tape. Then wrap the ducts with duct wrap insulation of R-6 with a vapor retarder facing on the outer side. All joints where sections of insulation meet should have overlapped facings and be tightly sealed with fiber glass tape; but avoid compressing the insulation, thus reducing its thickness and R-value.
Return air ducts are often located inside the heated portion of the house where they don't need to be insulated, but they should still be sealed off from air passageways that connect to unheated areas. Drywall- to-ductwork connections should be inspected because they are often poor (or nonexistent) and lead to unwanted air flows through wall cavities. If the return air ducts are located in an unconditioned part of the building, they should be insulated.
Look at your pipes. If water pipes run through unheated or uncooled spaces in your mobile home then those pipes should be insulated.
AIR SEALING
Air sealing is important, not only because drafts are uncomfortable, but also because air leaks carry both moisture and energy, usually in the direction you don't want. For example, air leaks can carry hot humid outdoor air into your home in the summer, or can carry warm moist air from a bathroom into the ceiling in the winter.
Most homeowners are aware that air leaks into and out of their homes through small openings around doors and window frames and through fireplaces and chimneys. Air also enters the living space from other unheated parts of the house such as the crawlspace under the home. Generally the skirting around your mo bile home provides little if any R value protection. The air travels through:
- any openings or cracks where two walls meet, where the wall meets the ceiling, or near interior door frames;
- gaps around electrical outlets, switch boxes, and recessed fixtures;
- gaps behind recessed cabinets, and furred or false ceilings such as kitchen or bathroom soffits;
- behind bath tubs and shower stall units;
- through floor cavities in the under belly of the home;
- plumbing and electrical wiring penetrations.
These
leaks between the living space and other parts of the home are often much
greater than the obvious leaks around windows and doors. Since many of these
leakage paths are driven by the tendency for warm air to rise and cool air to fall,
the space between the ceiling and the roof is the best location to stop them. It's important to stop these leaks
before adding roofing insulation because the insulation may hide them and make
them less accessible. Usually, the roof insulation itself
will not stop these leaks and you won't save as much as you expect because of
the air flowing through or around the insulation.
There are many fact sheets
that will help you stop these air leaks: - Air sealing
- Air sealing an existing home
- Air Sealing Technology Fact Sheet
- Air Sealing in Occupied Homes (1995)
SUPER-INSULATION
Super-insulation is a goal for mobile homes if circumstances and budgets permit. If you super-insulate you may not need much if any heating or cooling. R-ETRO insulation systems is an interesting product for many reasons. CHECK OUT THIS SHORT POWERPOINT PRESENTATION to observe the flexibility of R-ETRO interior and exterior insulation possibilities using this QUAD-LOCK system.
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